Showing posts with label Mexico. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mexico. Show all posts

10 March 2008

Ex-Post Facto

I'm sorry that I didn't keep the blog running throughout the trip.  As you might imagine, after a day in the rainforest or out on the town, the last thing I wanted to do was spend half an hour in an internet café to pull my head out of my vacation mindset.

I did, however, keep a journal, and I've typed it up here.  I've post-dated all the entries so they appear on the date they actually happened.

I don't have all the pictures together yet, but stay on the look-out for them! You can check out the blog the guys put up here.

Also, you might want to read from the bottom-to-top!

Decompressing

My bags arrived at 6:45 this morning. The delivery guy was kind enough to remind me to set my clocks forward an hour.

All day, I've felt like I'm in a swimming pool less than 30 minutes after a big meal. I haven't had time to digest and process everything that's happened over the past nine days. I'm certainly not ready to back Indiana. I managed to go grocery shopping, do some laundry, and clean my apartment today. I think it will take me another day or two to get myself back in line with life here. I just wish the world would stand still for a little bit before I have to get back the grind tomorrow!

I'm so glad I went, and I think I'm glad to be back. The cold weather doesn't help! :) I miss the rainforest already, but I'm pretty relieved to be in an environment that is not completely filled with testosterone. (Sorry, guys!)

I've still got a lot to do to get myself back in line here, so I'm off to do some homework and cook lunch. Yippee!

09 March 2008

On the Rebound

We made it back to our winter wonderland tonight - despite many sprints through many airports and some misplaced baggage. I was really tired all morning. I think I fell asleep anytime I sat still for 10 seconds. The guys claim I also fell asleep standing up in the airport, but I don't remember that. Hmm.... I do know that I looked pretty ridiculous being sunburned when we arrived in Indy in the middle of a snowstorm! I'm glad to be sleeping in my own bed tonight, but I think I'll be disappointed to wake up tomorrow and realize I'm back in Indiana.

08 March 2008

Last Night in Town

The Orrs threw us a going-away party this evening in their Bed & Breakfast. I can’t believe this trip is almost over! They had a Mariachi band come and play a few songs, and we got to get some closure among the group and with Alonso to wrap up the trip. Of course, we spent the rest of the night out on the town. There were a few clubs that had Salsa and Meringue dancing (among others), and we all wore ourselves out!

Sick Day

The guys and professors took a daytrip to Chamula where they learned and participated in about some indigenous churches and religions. Unfortunately, my hearing still hasn’t improved, so I stayed back to visit a doctor this morning. I ended up paying $75 for an ear, nose, and throat specialist to fill my prescriptions for Claritin-D and Aleve. Kind of a bummer to have missed out just for that, but it is comforting to know that it’s just that my eardrum is swollen up like an earplug, rather than permanently damaged. I’m still a little nervous about all the air pressure changes during our four flights tomorrow. I hope it will all work out.

After I got some medicine in my system, I decided to spend the rest of the morning shopping around town and in the markets. I picked up a really neat dress and some amber jewelry. Apparently, this is a region that is well-renowned for its amber. It was still pretty expensive jewelry, so I hope no one gets their hopes up about getting some amber souvenirs!

Over lunch, there was a guy who came and talked about the religious tensions in Mexico. Unfortunately, he was pretty monotonous and started his lecture right after a big meal. I think most us were just fighting to stay awake and didn’t really get much out of the talk. Oops!

07 March 2008

Saint Sergio and his Museum

Sergio Castro helped organize the service project from this morning, but this evening he invited us onto his turf. He’s called San Sergio for a reason: he dedicates all of his time to service projects like the one we did this morning. More important, though, is the free medical service he provides to burn victims throughout the rural areas. He is not a doctor, but he has developed a holistic cure that helps people recover from second- and third-degree burns without skin grafts or any of miracles of modern medicine. Many of the dwellings here have fireplaces in the home (it’s cold here due the high altitude), and it is not uncommon for children to fall in or get seriously burned. He never accepts payment from the people he helps. He only accepts donations to his organization. As you might imagine, most people want to give something to the man who saves their children’s lives. As a result, his home is a museum of gifts he’s collected from nearly every indigenous culture. He gave us a tour and a really interesting lecture about all of the cultures. I had this feeling of being one of the nesting Russian Matryoshka dolls. Every culture is a microcosm that exists independently and somehow within an area dominated by a more popular culture. It’s all a system within a system. I’ve really enjoyed the out-of-body experiences like this throughout the trip that have helped me step out of context and look at things from the outside-in.

Service Project

For the service project, the guys all chipped in to help repaint, fence, and dig trenches around a rural school in the area. They were pretty tired afterwards, but they laughed that today was the first day they had worked harder than me. They were absolutely right! I was only worn out from the sunburn I got today. Up to now, I’ve been running around with a monopod and crossed fingers, hoping the shots turn out okay. I really enjoyed having time to get the shots I wanted since the guys and the school were more-or-less standing still.

06 March 2008

(Near) Death by Waterfall

On our way to San Cristóbal, we stopped at Agua Azul (“blue water”), a series of waterfalls, currents, and pools just begging to be explored. Alonso took those of us who were strong or crazy enough on an off-trail journey into the water. We spent over three hours climbing falls, jumping falls, swimming against the current, balancing on top of slippery logs and rocks, and finding our way into beautiful, peaceful pools of the clearest, bluest water I’ve ever seen. We only had four near-death experiences in our party of thirteen (one of them was mine!), but everyone turned out okay.

Since I survived, I’ll go ahead and tell my story. (Family, you may not want to read this!) One our way back to the starting point, we had all started to wear out and use the last of our strength to swim against the strong currents and climb up the falls. On the second-to last fall, we had to climb up the rocks and teeter over the top to get to a part where the water wasn’t too strong to swim. I lost my footing a few steps over the top, and fell into the current. I had to use my whole body to cling to the rocks and fallen log between me and what was past the edge of the fall. Luckily, there was one guy already in the water by the log, and he grabbed me before I lost my grip on the log! (Thanks again, Ty!) There were a few other guys there who helped to pull me back out of the water and into a safer current.

Back on dry land, we took inventory of our cuts, bruises, and fearful moments. It was an amazing adventure, but I don’t know that I would do it again… at least not for another few days!

05 March 2008

Goodbye, Palenque

Tonight, we returned to our rainforest paradise, and I got to sleep in the Birdcage room again. It was just as awesome as the first time! We had one last dinner together in the jungle and got to watch the firedancers who perform regularly at restaurants in Palenque. I'm not ready to leave!!

Ruins of Yaxchilan

A fifty-minute boat ride delivered us to the ruins of Yaxchilan. For most of us, this was our favorite site. The number and size of the ruins were incredible! We spent a couple of hours trekking through the site, and saw a lot of excavated artifacts. We were able to see some of the limestone carvings that help archaeologists learn about the history of ancient people there. A lot of the students were able to read the Maya calendar glyphs, and translated them to our Gregorian calendar. That was impressive enough!

It’s so hard to wrap my mind around how much time and labor and thought went into these ancient civilizations. I can’t help but wonder what might be found of our civilization a few centuries from now. As we scaled a mountain via a narrow forest pathway, we reached the highest ruins around. From the roof of the tallest building, we could see the mountain ridges and the top of the rainforest all the way around. I was too scared of heights to stay up there for long, but it was well worth the fright for a few seconds’ glance!

I’ve been reflecting more on my role as a videographer on this trip. So far, I’ve felt like I’ve seen a lot of this on TV (through the camcorder lens) instead of in person. It’s a little disappointing to not get the full emotional and spiritual effects of visiting some of the places, but it has definitely been a rewarding journey nonetheless. I’m sure as I begin to unwind from the trip, the profoundness of all of this will start to really sink in.

On our way back, the boat drivers were nice enough to drop us on the Guatemala side of the river for half an hour. Most of us just scavenged for stones as shells as cheap souvenirs. Some of the guys took the opportunity to get some Guatemalan beer. Boys will be boys.

04 March 2008

Nightlife in Bonampak

“Nightlife” is kind of an ironic term for Bonampak. We were literally in the middle of nowhere, but still managed to entertain ourselves! The place where we were staying was a river’s width away from Guatemala. After sunset, we built a fire on the riverbank and told some crazy stories, including one from Alonso about his brush (literally) with a jaguar while camping. After hearing about jungle predators, some of the guys had to go out past the edges of the firelight to gather sticks. A howler monkey overhead took the opportunity to scare them half to death with its painful screaming. I tried not to give them too much crap about squealing like little girls. ☺

We also climbed out on the rocks in the middle of the river and did some skywatching. Alonso has a green laserpointer from NASA that basically shoots indefinitely into the sky. We got to see some amazing constellations and compare those of the western world with those of the Maya.

Later into the night, we also heard the motorboats of the coyotes, who transport illegal immigrants from Guatemala to Mexico by night. Alonso explained the river served as transport and fishing during the day, but it was definitely not a safe place to be at night. We also heard about the banditos who smuggle lots of drugs up and down the river. I was glad to be sitting on the Mexican side of the riverbank and away from the water by then!

Jungle Hike

We met up with our indigenous guide, Lucas, and started off on our 2-hour hike through the jungle. We learned about the religious meaning of the Ceiba tree, whose roots hold the earth together; we found piles of snail shells that had been gutted for food by indigenous people; we had to walk around the long trails of leaf-cutter ants. The trails were dirt and leaves, and a few rickety, wooden bridges. One of the football players on our trip actually snapped a board in one of the bridges. Thankfully, he landed face-first in the dirt on the other side instead of in the water below!

As a reward for our hard work (as if a hike through the rainforest isn’t reward enough!), we spent a couple of hours climbing and swimming in the Golondrinas waterfalls. There were six falls that were pretty close together, and a few small pools, but the current wasn’t very strong. I was pretty nervous about climbing around them at first, but by the end of our time, I had done “the hard one”, which involved scaling a short rock wall inside the fall, then holding my breath as I pulled myself through a 2’ x 3’ cavernous opening to cross back through the water at the top of the fall.

It was neat to film a lot of the rainforest flora and fauna, but I was very relieved to put the camera down for a few hours and just unwind!

Today, I also got a nickname from the guys. One of them started saying that I will working for National Geographic after I’m done with this trip and Wabash. The rest of them agreed and started calling me “National Geographic” or “NG” because of the running, jumping, and all the extra energy I have to put into everything we do; everytime Alonso stops to talk, I have to have the camera rolling (and hopefully focused!) to get his stuff, whatever he's talking about, and the guys in the shot. I don’t really think that I’ll be working for a such a major company after this is all over, but it was a pretty neat compliment and it made me feel good about all the hard work I’m doing trying to get everything on tape and camera.

On the Road to Bonampak

This morning, we were all awakened to a couple of howler monkeys who decided to shake up our quiet rainforest site. If you’ve never heard a howler monkey before, imagine an asthmatic elephant. A very, very disgruntled asthmatic elephant. I think the monkeys must’ve eaten the 24 bird. Haven’t heard from him in awhile.

We left our rainforest paradise at 7am for San Cristóbal. A hut-in-the-wall place, which was basically some thatched logs on the side of the road, gave us the best breakfast we’ve had so far: Fresh fruit and fruit juice, tortillas with eggs, rice, and beans, sugar bread, and homemade queso. Another long ride in the (air-conditioned, cushion-seated) tour bus, and we’ll be off on our next adventure!

03 March 2008

Tour of Palenque Archaeological Site and Museum

One could imagine that there are all kinds of sounds in the rainforest that seep into a mostly-screened room. This morning, I was awakened by a bird that sounded like the ticking clock of the TV show 24. Deep in my subconscious, I was waiting for something to explode or catch fire. It’s strange to think about TV shows in the middle of the rainforest… and to anxiously await spontaneous combustion.

We started our day with a hike through the uninhabited rainforest behind the Palenque ruins. Natural waterfalls, beautiful streams, rocks, trees, and wildlife, and a lot of unexcavated ruins. It’s amazing to see these buildings as archaeologists must have found them. Many are completely covered with earth, moss, or trees, and are largely unnoticeable to the untrained eye.

Next, we arrived at the ancient city of Palenque. It was ingeniously laid out, with multiple pyramids designed to align with events of the sun and moon. We saw the Temple of Inscriptions, which contains a huge number of stories about the Mayan culture. There were several other temples, all unique and equally breathtaking. Pictures don’t do them justice. I can hardly believe how old all of these buildings are. We’re only starting to learn about the tools and methods they used.

We also got to walk through the grounds of King Pakal’s Royal Palace. There were underground tunnels, running water, and a limestone toilet. As it turns out, it was pretty comfortable. The Romans and the Maya were the only two ancient cultures to bring running water into their cities. They both used the structure of the building and an aqueduct. I’ve been wondering how many great ideas of past civilizations have been lost to conquerors.

After our exhausting hike through the rainforest, city grounds, and up and down pyramids, several of us got fresh coconuts with straws. Some of us were smart enough to share them. Some of the guys found out (the hard way) that drinking the milk of an entire coconut is the equivalent of chugging a bottle of Ex-Lax. We’ll see how that plays out on our bus ride tomorrow. I certainly won’t be sitting near the toilet in the back!

When we went to the museum, we got to see many of the hidden treasures that have been excavated from the pyramids. We got to stand next to the enormous sarcophagus of King Pakal, and we were even able to read parts of the tablets from the walls. I can’t believe that I’m reading Mayan after only two days!

02 March 2008

Archaeo-Astronomy Lecture

Alonso gave us a really amazing lecture on how the Maya used their calendars (based entirely on astronomical events) to create buildings that align perfectly with the sunrise, sunset, and moonlight on certain meaningful events. One example was a row of three pyramids. On the spring equinox, the sun rose along the left side of the left-most pyramid. Nine months later, the sun sets on the right side of the right-most pyramid. This nine-month period was based on the lunar calendar, and can be associated with the gestation of human life and the planting and harvesting of corn crops. It’s not surprising then, that the Corn God is the most revered of all.

We also learned about skybands, a strip of written characters that tell the stories of the sky and other astronomical events. Skybands are used as borders and central decorations in many sculptures and documents. I’m sure you can find more information on Wikipedia or the History Channel. I strongly encourage you to go check them out.

Welcome to the Jungle

A three-hour drive landed us in the rainforest of Palenque. We were aptly greeted with a downpour that lasted only the 20 minutes it took all of us to get our rooms, unload our baggage, and get back to our huts.

Thankfully, I get a room to myself. It’s a good thing, too. It’s me and 19 guys on this trip (3 profs, 15 students, and our guide, Alonso). I’ll take my precious few testosterone-free minutes when I can get them!

The rooms were individual buildings scattered throughout the rainforest, connected by a narrow path that ran through the middle. And yes, there were a lot of hippies from many different countries. Our guide Alonso lives here with his wife and two kids. I am so jealous. Alonso works as an archaeo-astronomer studying how the mathematics, language, astronomy, and architecture combined to form the ancient Mayan culture.

My building was called the Birdhouse, and it was easily the coolest building on-site. It’s a two-story round building. The ceiling is plastered on the inside, with thatched leaves on the roof. The top level has screened windows around the entire wall (how many walls does a round room have?), except for where the bed sat. Not much privacy, but a great view. Mostly, I was just glad to have electricity and warm running water.

The room wasn’t as bug-filled as I had expected, either. There was an enormous Banana Spider – I named him Herbert – who guarded the outside of my screen, and I shared my shower floor with Ché the cucaracha. No mosquitoes, maybe another few cockroaches, but not bothersome at all.

La Venta Park


La Venta park is a mix between a Mexican zoo and a sculpture park for the limestone art of the Olmecas. We saw everything from jaguars to the wild marsupials who were roaming on the fencetops and along the path. Sharp teeth, sharp claws. A mix between a badger and a Tasmanian devil. And the guys wanted to get close and take pictures. Brilliant. Boys will be boys, I guess.

The Olmec statues were 1500-2000 years old and they included figures, ground patterns of stones, and other carved blocks similar to the decorations found in temples.

This was my first attempt to do any filming, and it was a pretty easy start. It was only a one-mile walk, nice weather, and lots of places to stop and take pictures. I hope the rest of the filming will go so well.

01 March 2008

The After-Hours

After a long trip in, a little entertainment was in order. We went out for drinks (mine was a piña colada sin alcohol, made with fresh coconut milk) at the bar in the hotel. The live music seemed quite authentic, being sung by Mexicans and all. After I got over the initial shock of the silver-lined stage with cut-out paper hearts on the wall, I really enjoyed the show.

Arrive safely

We made it to Villahermosa, Tabasco without incident. We got in at 8:45pm (CST), and we're riding in a well-cushioned bus where none of us have to share a row. It's perfect after a long day.

Customs in Mexico is, hmm... how can I put this in perspective? We all know about the "random" searching that goes on in American airports. Here, you walk into customs, and the first person you see signs your tourist document, stamps your passport, and explains to you in Spanish something very important that you will hopefully understand. (If you ever go to Mexico, don't throw out that little stub of paper.) Put the bag(s) through the conveyor belt machine. Collect bag(s). Then, the fun part: Walk up to the stoplight and press the button. If it turns green, you can "pase". If it turns red, you and your bag(s) will be searched. It's almost more fun than fortune cookies and horoscopes... assuming it turns green!

We're staying at a really nice hotel (just for tonight) with a pool, and an outdoor patio that gets a nice breeze from the lake next to it. Did I mention that it's a lovely 65 degrees here at night?

Tomorrow, we'll be hiking in the low 80s to a park called La Venta. I'm not sure what exactly we'll see when we get there, but I'll have the cameras ready for anything. I'm already going through my equipment tonight and getting the bag packed for tomorrow, the batteries charged, and the tapes and memory cards ready.

That's about it for now. Tomorrow starts at "0-800 hours".